A Comprehensive Review on Cosmeceutical

Abstract

Cosmeceutical” is not a term formally recognized by regulatory bodies. It was a term introduced in the 1980s to describe an emerging type of PCP with therapeutic potential, sold for topical use but with claimed performance characteristics more aligned with pharmaceutical actions (Martin and Glaser, 2011; Draelos, 2015; Sotiropoulou et al., 2021) (see Chapter 4). As such, cosmeceuticals confound the distinction between cosmetic and drug, but they remain at the current time viewed by regulatory agencies as cosmetic products with ingredients regulated as for any other ingredients of PCPs. This status quo raises two questions, firstly of the evidence for the purported medical benefit and secondly of possible side effects from inappropriate usage. Without regulatory scrutiny, claimed medical benefits of these biologically active ingredients are not externally validated and could be misleading to consumers. On the other hand, supply of these products without any guidance as to quantity or frequency of use could result in adverse side effects. Pharmaceuticals are always provided with considerable information to the user concerning dosage and possible side effects, and with purported biological activity, cosmeceuticals need the same provision if misuse is to be avoided.

Introduction

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products containing bioactive ingredients that claim to provide medical or therapeutic benefits to the skin, bridging the gap between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. They aim to address skin concerns such as acne, aging, and photoaging, often through topical application of ingredients like retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, and antioxidants. Key characteristics include bioactive components, therapeutic potential, and topical use, although the category is not formally recognized or regulated by authorities like the FDA or EU, leading to debates over the validity of claims.

Main Ingredients and Effects:

• Vitamins:

  • Vitamin A/Retinoids (tretinoin, retinol, retinaldehyde) stimulate collagen synthesis, reduce fine lines, but can cause irritation.

  • Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant, reducing UV-induced erythema and improving wrinkles.

  • Vitamin B3 (niacinamide) improves skin barrier, reduces pigmentation, and smooths texture, though less potent than retinoids.

  • Vitamin C supports collagen biosynthesis, acts as an antioxidant, and reduces photoaging effects.

• Hydroxy Acids:

  • α- and β-hydroxy acids (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid) promote exfoliation, improve hyperpigmentation, acne, and dermal thickening.

  • Polyhydroxy and bionic acids provide similar benefits with reduced irritation and added antioxidant properties.

• Peptides:

  • Collagen and elastin fragments (e.g., pal-KTTKS, Cu-GHK, Ac-EEMQRR) stimulate collagen production, improve wrinkles, and may mimic botulinum toxin effects. Cost and potency remain challenges.

• Growth Factors:

  • Proteins like kinetin support wound healing, reduce signs of aging, improve skin texture, and protect against oxidative stress. Evidence for clinical efficacy is limited.

Regulatory Status:
Cosmeceuticals are not formally regulated as drugs. There is no legal requirement in the U.S. or EU to prove their efficacy, resulting in ongoing debate regarding the actual benefits of these products.

Conclusion

Cosmaceuticals are cosmetic products containing biologically active ingredients that provide pharmaceutical-like benefits, such as anti-aging or acne control, beyond simple aesthetic enhancement. The term is a portmanteau of \"cosmetics\" and \"pharmaceuticals\" and describes products intended to influence the skin\'s biological functions to improve its health and beauty. These products are not formally recognized as either a cosmetic or a drug by regulatory bodies like the US FDA or the EU.

References

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Copyright

Copyright © 2025 Sayyed Faizanul Hasan, Mr. Pramod Mishra, Mr. Sujeet Pratap Singh, Dr. Tarkeshwar P. Shukla. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.