Background Ayurveda is one of the oldest and most innovative natural medical systems. Sociologically speaking, beauty is significant, and everyone should care deeply about skin colour. The primary goal of Ayurveda is to treat illness. The colour of the skin is known as varna in Ayurveda. The term \"varnay\" refers to enhancing the complexion by restoring and maintaining the natural texture and tone of the skin.Varnya Mahakashaya is the 8th group of 50 Mahakashaya, described in Chapter 4 ofCharak Sutrasthan and contains 10 drugs. The mechanism of action of the herbs mentioned in Varnya Mahakashya is maintaining skin color.Varnya, classified as \"improving the complexion”, Varnya refers to medicinal herbs that promote \"skin whitening\" (whatever brings softness and beauty to skin along with enhancement of complexion, radiance or luminescence is termed asvarnya).Aims andobjectives-This article trying to elaborate the skin complexion enhancing medicinal plants by their mode of action, medicinaleffect, Latin name, image, formulationsetc. Ayurvedic literature describe many herbs for skin complexion.Now it is a time to highlight the Ayurveda in the world of cosmetics with its unique aspects. The adverse reaction of modern cosmetics and higher cost of therapy are also one of the causes to look towards Ayurveda for its humeral approach. There is a great demand for Ayurveda in the field of cosmetology. Material and methods- for the purpose of this review article description related to charak Samhita, various research articles, websites, review articles and internet sources and reference texts is done. Discussion-as per description of twacka and varnawe find out that many factors are responsible for complexion and varnya mahakashay dravyas act on those by their medicinal properties.
Introduction
Topic Overview:
The concept of beauty, particularly skin complexion, is of great socio-medical importance. In Ayurveda, Varnya Mahakashaya is a group of medicinal plants used to enhance skin complexion (Varna) and promote healthy, glowing skin. These plants are believed to improve the appearance of the skin by acting on both its color and radiance.
The word Varna in Sanskrit refers to skin color, and Ya indicates health. In Ayurveda, Varnya refers to herbs or substances that improve skin complexion. Charak Samhita lists 10 herbs in the Varnya Mahakashaya, which help achieve clear, radiant skin with tightness. These herbs have significant medical properties that are utilized in skincare formulations.
Key Herbs in Varnya Mahakashaya:
The ten herbs mentioned in Charak Samhita include:
Shwet Chandan (Sandalwood)
Padmak (Prunus cyrasodius)
Nagkeshar (Mesua ferrea)
Ushir (Vetiveria zizanoides)
Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia)
Sariva (Hemidesmus indicus)
Shwet Durva (Cynadon dactylon)
Neel Durva (Cynadon dactylon)
Yastimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra)
Kshirvidari (Ipomea digitata)
These plants have specific properties that make them effective in improving skin tone and radiance.
Key Concepts in Ayurveda Regarding Skin:
Chaya refers to the skin's complexion, while Prabha denotes its glow. Both are critical for skin health.
Bhrajaka Pitta is responsible for skin complexion and radiance. This is linked to the skin's natural glow and is influenced by the herbs in Varnya Mahakashaya.
Pharmacological Properties of the Herbs:
Each herb has unique pharmacological actions based on its chemical composition, including the ability to balance doshas (Pitta, Kapha, Vata) and improve skin health. Some common properties across these herbs include:
Shwet Chandan (Sandalwood): Known for its skin brightening, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. It inhibits tyrosinase, preventing dark spots.
Padmak: Contains Puddumin B that enhances skin fairness and prevents melanin production.
Yastimadhu (Licorice): Reduces dark pigmentation and improves skin radiance through its active compounds, especially glycyrrhizic acid.
Manjistha: Known for its blood-purifying effects and its ability to even out skin tone by inhibiting melanin production.
Formulations:
These herbs are used both internally and externally in various forms such as:
Churna (powder)
Kwatha (decoction)
Kalka (paste)
Ghanavati (tablets/pills)
Lepa (local application)
Mode of Action:
Modern Science: The herbs in Varnya Mahakashaya work by inhibiting melanin formation (via tyrosinase inhibition), acting as skin whitening agents.
Ayurveda: The herbs affect Bhrajaka Pitta and help detoxify the blood, improving complexion both internally and externally.
Discussion on the Physiology and Effects:
Ushna Veerya (hot potency) helps activate Bhrajaka Pitta and improves medication absorption, contributing to skin color improvement.
Madhura Rasa (sweet taste) and Tikta Rasa (bitter taste) both have properties that balance Pitta and promote skin health by nourishing and purifying the blood.
Kashaya (astringent) and Tikta help reduce excess fluid and cool down Pitta, leading to a clear and radiant skin tone.
Conclusion
Varnya Mahakashaya dravya are mainly Madhura tikta rasatmaka, kapha pitta shamaka. Therefore, shows varnya effect. They can be used externally or internally. They work on variety of elements which creates and nourishes skin. plays many roles such as helper, purification agent, stimulator and creator of natural blood. These herbs can be used individually or in combination to prepare formulations such as oils, powders, or pastes for external application or as part of internal medications. Cosmetics are used in wide range which leads to many hazardous effects due to many chemicals. Ayurveda emphasizes a holistic approach the use of herbal formulations to promote overall well-being and healthy skin. In exploring the realm of Varnya Mahakashaya, one finds a rich tradition that blends nature, holistic well-being, and the pursuit of radiant, healthy skin. Ayurveda, with its timeless wisdom, continues to contribute to the diverse landscape of skincare, offering an alternative approach that transcends conventional beauty standards. There are immense opportunities to use herbal ingredients in the cosmetics in accordance with the principles of Ayurvedic medicine
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